In the far west corner of Nepal (clicking info button, top left, for more detail and maps), our visit begins in Simikot, travelling northwest following the Karnali R. and an ancient salt trade route; over the 4500m pass known as Nara La; and into the border town of Hisla, that saddles the Nepal/Tibet divide. At Hilsa, we turn eastbound, above and along the Karnali R., on the Limi Valley Trail, proper; then continuing along the Limi river and valley floor, gently making higher heights; and eventually to Nyalu La, a 5000m pass. Over Nyalu La, we drop fast following the Salli R. that trips, tosses, and tumbles it way to the Karnali R. Closing our circuit, we are Simikot bound on the salt route again; back in warmer climes and a more agreeable elevation - and the familiar odour of livestock dung and wild cannabis.

Needless to say, this tortured land of dramatic topography and great extremes is one of spectacle: with soaring peaks that will rob you of breath, yawning valleys that’ll swallow the less sure-footed, and daily hot and cold cycles that can crack you. These are but a few of the many things that make this an adventure, but it is the glorious scenery, the amiable villagers, and spanning solitude, that make this a joy.